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蘿莉風格(英語:Lolita fashion ,日語:ロリータ・ファッション)是一種時尚服飾次文化,源自日本。這種「哥德與蘿莉塔」的服飾風格是從維多利亞時代女童服裝和洛可可時期的精細服裝的啟發,以及西方哥德龐克次文化的影響而形成的

這種穿衣風格的典型是及膝內裡穿著紗裙或泡褲以達到散開的效果。通常以過膝襪及膝襪配襯,尤其是上面印上玫瑰皇冠圖案、有蕾絲花邊與荷葉邊的。典型的鞋子是可愛類型,近似童裝鞋,例如圓頭平底女鞋,另外薇薇安·魏斯伍德 的馬頭鞋和其他類似的鞋子也很常見。裙子通常以有飾邊的、有硬縐領的、或綴上蕾絲的維多利亞女裝襯衣常配上彼得潘或水手服衣領,或有蕾絲的長襯衣

由於這種打扮與小說蘿莉塔的女主角以及日本動漫次文化中蘿莉的打扮相似,因此稱為蘿莉風格。




蘿莉次文化:


蘿莉風格又可分為哥德蘿莉甜美蘿莉古典蘿莉、以及龐克蘿莉。當然也有此種風格的延伸副產品,例如「和風蘿莉」。除此之外,「貴族風」與「王子風」這類次風格的流行有時候被認為是跟隨在蘿莉風格或蘿莉文化之後的。

哥德蘿莉

影響是來自 哥德風格,哥德蘿莉大概會成為最流行的蘿莉風格和在西方是最認得出。這風格是原於約1997/1998年的次文化和成為已為大家接受的類型。約2001年,專賣流行衣物的小商店和較大的百貨公司都能買到。有些觀察者認為這是反映 "Kogal"美學。

It is commonly mistaken as the blanket term for Lolita fashion and Gothic Lolita in Western Lolita culture. The name "EGL" applies only to that specific line of clothing in Moi-même-Moitié, which is in the Gothic Lolita style. Non-Japanese outsiders sometimes refer to Gothic Lolita as EGL, but this is generally frowned upon within Western lolita circles, as anyone who uses it is assumed to have only a shallow understanding of the fashion. (See bottom paragraph for more.)

哥德蘿莉衣服可以分成次範疇:

哥德蘿莉: 哥德蘿莉是最普遍和最流行的於哥德蘿莉的次範疇。衣物通常是黑、白色,但也有可能包含黑色和暗藍色(於Moitié風格) 或黑和紅。暗綠色也會被使用,但不普遍。

黑蘿莉: 黑蘿莉是哥德蘿莉但輪廓都是黑色。

白蘿莉: 白蘿莉是哥德蘿莉但輪廓都是白色。Sometimes antique white, ivory or cream is worn.

可怕蘿莉: 可怕蘿莉是指可怕的蘿莉。This style is often more of a costume and requires the wearer to dress with gore, as though they had been injured or in hospital - 例 繃帶、固定用的敷料、假血和眼罩。

化妝以暗色為主,跟其他的化淺色妝的蘿莉類型成對比。蒼白的臉更好,但不是「哥德/白臉」的蒼白。 紅 唇膏 和smokey 和/或 靈巧清晰的使用黑眼線膏和khol也會用。不過,這化妝不是很暗或像西方哥德的引人注目;而是比較輕柔。

服裝可能裝飾跟其他道具像明顯的pocketbooks、帽盒和手提包,有時候in the shape of 蝙蝠棺材,和 crucifix。玩具熊和其他毛絨玩具是偶爾被攜帶,某些品牌製造特別"goken"玩具熊用黑皮革或聚氯乙烯SD娃娃 也可能被到處攜帶。

Gothic Lolita was influenced and popularized by the look of androgynous 視覺系 bands. Visual Kei is a Japanese form of 搖滾樂 defined by bands featuring performers in elaborate costumes but whose musical style varies. Mana, the 扮裝 former leader and guitarist of the Visual Kei band Malice Mizer, is widely credited for having helped popularize Gothic Lolita. He coined the terms Elegant Gothic Lolita (EGL) and Elegant Gothic Aristocrat (EGA) to describe the style of his own fashion label Moi-même-Moitié, which was founded in 1999 and quickly established itself as one of the most coveted brands of the Gothic Lolita scene. Another common Gothic Lolita brand is Atelier BOZ.

甜美蘿莉

甜美蘿莉(甘ロリ)的服裝通常包含非常高比例的蕾絲及褶邊,裙子及膝,並且使服裝的外觀看起來盡可能的甜美與可愛。其經常使用的顏色包括粉紅、粉藍,也有乳黃色與紅色。至於黑色如果包含上述的特徵及標準,當然也有甜美的效果。 甜美蘿莉也會將服裝上的印花設計成花朵、水果或其他甜食的樣子;在配件方面則常常有娃娃、布偶或泰迪熊。

此類服裝的範例可參考電影《下妻物語》中桃子所穿的樣式。 甜美蘿莉有一個次分類稱作「白蘿莉」。白蘿莉的服裝色系是全白或絕大部分由白色組成。 知名的甜美蘿莉的品牌有Baby, The Stars Shine Bright(下妻物語中女主角穿著的服飾品牌)、Manifesteange Metamorphose temps de filleAngelic Pretty等。


古典蘿莉

Male and female examples of Classical Lolita. Note the man's contact lenses
Male and female examples of Classical Lolita. Note the man's contact lenses

古典蘿莉是蘿莉風格的一種次分類,它是由維多利亞風(Victorian fashion,維多利亞時代的女裝風格)、巴洛克風及洛可可風所獲得的靈感而來的。此一風格不同於甜美蘿莉所散發出的天真爛漫,而呈現出更為成熟的風采,它以花朵或花朵似的造型為主題,具有深沈且柔和的顏色,纖細的樣式及法國皇宮式的腰身。使用的顏色包括全白、古典白、粉紅、葡萄酒紅、藍、咖啡、黑色等,其配件包括髮箍、花朵頭飾、女用手提包、及迷你的飾。

然而,「哥德蘿莉」中的典型樣式:黑白搭配的女僕裝、以及愛麗絲式的圍裙卻也經常被錯誤地貼上古典蘿莉的標籤。 知名的古典蘿莉品牌包括Innocent World, Mary Magdalene 和 Victorian Maiden。

龐克蘿莉

龐克蘿莉是結合了龐克文化基礎的蘿莉風格。主要是基於龐克衣著,例如破爛的布料,彩格布,安全扣和鏈子,screen-printed的布料和短髮都合併於蘿莉。
不過,顯示在很多的龐克衣著的
Gothic & Lolita Bible 就不是龐克蘿莉,只是恭維的風格。

Many of the Japanese punk brands take influence from London's famous Camden Town Markets and similar clothing can be found there at less cost. 龐克蘿莉又是聯繫薇薇安·魏斯伍德,就算其不是蘿莉設計師,也有細目和收集蘿莉的感覺,尤其她在日本收集。

知名的龐克蘿莉品牌包括A+Lidel, Putumayo, h. NAOTO 和 Na+H.

其他蘿莉風格

和風蘿莉

和風蘿莉
和風蘿莉

和風蘿莉是傳統日式服裝與蘿莉風格的結合。通常將和服與裙子作一結合,或者將和服的下半身改造成蘿莉風格的樣式。 和風蘿莉此一名稱係源自於將日本稱為「和平之島」或「倭(Wa)島」的傳統

中國風蘿莉

中國風蘿莉(旗蘿莉)與和風蘿莉類似,它結合了蘿莉與中國傳統服裝,例如旗袍鳳仙裝等。

海盜蘿莉

海盜蘿莉
海盜蘿莉

海盜蘿莉保持原有蘿莉風格的特質,並結合歷史性與奇幻式的海盜服裝,例如迷你的三角船型帽(海盜戴在頭上那種)、藏寶箱式的手提包、航海上或海盜標誌所轉化而成的印花都是此一服裝風格的特徵。

Baby, The Stars Shine Bright的副牌,「Alice and the Pirates」他們的訴求就是推廣這種服裝樣式。 Manifesteange Metamorphose temps de fille的服裝也以其航海式的樣子(水手服...)聞名,然而他們的服裝並非從海盜而是從粉色系風格的相關服裝得來的靈感。

露出系蘿莉

露出系蘿莉 (or Erololi) is erotic in a fetishistic sense, rather than in the revealing of skin. Erololi can use slightly shorter skirts than other Lolita styles, but it is erotic in the conservative Victorian sense, and is often more modest than a great deal of other contemporary fetish fashions.

Its main components are often undergarments worn to be seen, such as corsets, bloomers, petticoats and garters. This should not be overdone, however; generally speaking, the most skin that should be shown is at the shoulders and knees.

An erololi brand is Antique Beast. 露出系蘿莉(情色蘿莉)是指此類服裝讓人有情色、誘惑式的戀物情結,而非單純只是露出皮膚而已。露出系蘿莉會使用較其他蘿莉風格更短的裙子,因此以較為保守的維多利亞風觀點來看就會變得情色,然而此種服裝往往較現在市面上許多標榜性感的服裝更為謙虛低調。

露出系蘿莉的特點是露出內衣如紗裙、燈籠褲襯裙吊襪帶等,也會露出肩膀和膝蓋。

露出系蘿莉的其中一個品牌是Antique Beast。




蘿莉文化:



羅莉塔風尚在西方發展成為一種類似自由維多利亞主義的文化,它包含了維多利亞風格與感性,如同時尚本身,提倡一種向現代生活中已經漸漸失去的童真和優雅的回歸。像其他復古風格的潮流和文化一樣,它會繼續將一些現代原理、技術與風格包容到其理想之中。


 歌特和羅莉塔的寶典

一個特別的月刊雜誌《歌特和羅莉塔寶典》,系統的詮釋並確定了這樣的一種風格. 100余頁的雜誌中,包含有潮流提示,照片,紡織紋樣,種類描述,飾品襯物,甚至還有搭配竅門。 Mana是這個雜誌的附屬部分在其中經常有獨家拍攝的照片。


 KERA and KERAMANIAX

KERA publications are not completely lolita, showcasing visual kei, decora and j-punk brands as well, but they are cheaper than the previously mentioned magazines and almost as comprehensive. In particular, KERAMANIAX has collaborated with brands such as Putumayo on dual-name items.

 Shopping

Currently the heart of the Gothic and Lolita subculture, at least commercially, is the Marui Young department store in 新宿, after its predecessor Marui One closed at the end of August 2004. This large youth-fashion oriented department store has 4 floors entirely devoted to Gothic and Lolita and related fashions. Additionally, the "LaForet" department store in 原宿 is also considered a small mecca, with brands such as Putumayo, Angelic Pretty, h.Naoto, and Atelier Pierrot in the basement. Nearby are Maxicimam and Bodyline stores, though it is suggested that one avoid Bodyline unless on a strict budget. Now stores such as Moi-Meme-Moitie, Baby, the Stars Shine Bright, Metamorphose Temps de Fille, Closet Child and many others sell lolita fashion at their outlets and online. Boutiques are increasingly offering English-language web sites and international shipping; however, some fashions are only available through shopping services. Western Gothic and Lolita boutiques such as The White Peacock, Candy Violet, Apple Sugar, Blasphemina's Closet, Fanplusfriend Garden and In the Starlight are becoming increasingly popular.[來源請求]

 動漫

Characters dressed in Lolita style may be found in numerous anime and manga, some of the most prominent being Kamikaze Girls, 百變小櫻, 天國之吻, Le Portrait de Petit Cossette, X-Day, 妹妹公主, 薔薇少女, 公主公主, 月詠, Othello, Chobits, xxxHOLiC, NANA, Coyote Ragtime Show,The Melancholy of Haruhi Suzumiya, 死亡筆記, Princess Ai and recently Digimon Savers.

電影

2004年的日本電影《下妻物語》中深田恭子土屋安娜就展示了蘿莉風格服裝。

 文學

The Shimotsuma Monogatari novel by Novala Takemoto inspired the film and manga. Alice Ever Falling is a three-volume illustrated novel series with characters dressed in Gothic Lolita fashion.

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